19 Cockney Hill, Reading. RG30 4HF

0118 942 4981

info@scalgon.co.uk

 

 

Emails are NOT a foolproof messaging system. If you don’t get a reply within 24 hrs then we didn’t get your message!

 

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How to stop limescale

 

LimeStop

Siliphos Limescale Inhibitor

Guaranteed to work!

Just £69 + £10 postage

 

LimeStop is a Siliphos-packed limescale inhibitor that is truly guaranteed to work - or your money back!

 

The LimeStop contains silicate-polyphosphate balls called Siliphos. This is a widely-trusted food-grade material proven time and again to inhibit limescale formation. Its ability to combat limescale deposits is really quite remarkable as it both lays down a protective layer on the walls of the supply piping and inhibits calcium deposits.

 

Keep limescale away

for just 9p a day!

 

Copper construction.

Brass fittings already fitted.

Sealed unit.

No need to replace Siliphos...

Discard after 2 years...

And fit a new one!

CLICK HERE

 

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We are recommended by Gledhill to work on their hot water heaters. We supply and install heat exchangers for most of their appliances

Models such as the Cormorant, BoilerMate, PulsaCoil, Torrent, SysteMate and GulfStream have heat exchangers that are prone to limescale formation in hard water areas. There are two types of heat exchanger: ‘plated’ and ‘coil’. The coil type such as that fitted in the original BoilerMate and also in the Torrent are easily descaled. These exist in pockets of developments such as that at Rooksdown in Basingstoke. The plated type shown in the above photo is usually held in stock. If you are a heating engineer, or even just a domestic customer sourcing your own parts supply, then give us a call if you would like to order a heat exchanger. This is Gledhill’s part number GT017.  £113 including vat, but plus postage.

 

Need help with a Gledhill?

PulsaCoil playing up?

Click HERE

 

GSE

Gledhill Service Engineers

We’re often phoned by consumers many miles away from our location. We will publish a list here as and when those engineers get in touch with us to be listed, though please be aware that it’s merely a list, not a recommendation.

If you are a heating engineer who works on Gledhill appliances then simply email us to be included here in link exchange.

 

Berkshire

Scalgon

0118 942 4981

 

Cambridgeshire

Thermal Solutions

01354 638050

 

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JETFLO POWER FLUSHING

 

We have been cleaning systems of ‘sludge’ for thirty years. We are often called in by other plumbing and heating companies to solve problems with systems that either poorly heat - or don’t heat at all. We’ve therefore put together this “frequently asked questions” brochure - based on what we’re most often asked by both plumbers and the public. If, however, your question isn’t answered then simply telephone us.

 

WHAT IS ‘SLUDGE’?

Although your radiators are probably nicely painted in a glossy white, the fact is that on the inside they are bare steel. Similarly, if you have an old-type boiler it’s highly likely to have a heat exchanger made of cast iron. This is okay to some extent, but the majority of systems suffer from bubbles of air. When air gets in, corrosion will take place. The boiler’s heat exchanger and the radiators will quite simply start to rust. This is what ‘sludge’ is, primarily. Examined closely it looks like the iron filings that you used to sprinkle over a magnet in science lessons at primary school. However, when corrosion is severe then there will actually be 'chunks' of corrosion deposits. Active new corrosion will be red in colour - and turn the system water an orange colour.

 

WHY IS THE WATER BLACK?

If you take a sample of water into a jar then it will be dark grey in colour - or even black. However, let that water settle for an hour and the magnetite sludge will fall to the bottom. The water will clear and the sludge will lie in the bottom of the jar as a thick, oily-looking substance. Of course, this will settle into the bottom of your system too. This is why sludge often affects the downstairs circuit first in a two-storey home. The water is black because the sludge is trying to revert back to its base ore - from which the metal originally came. At this stage it is called 'magnetite'.

 

THE BOILER IS NOISY

Well it would be! All that sludge will get baked-on over the years onto the inside walls of the heat exchanger. It will build up, and slow the water from leaving the boiler. The boiler will therefore overheat - and thus become noisy. Both limescale and sludge are good insulators of heat, so it will also cost you much more in fuel. That sludge has to be heated too!

 

COULD I HAVE LIMESCALE AS WELL?

Possible, but unlikely. Limescale forms in hard water areas only - obviously. Systems will get an initial ‘dump’ of calcium on first fill of water. However, the average system would get about thirty grams. Pretty much nothing really. Your system heats the water and sends it out to the radiators. That water comes back and is re-heated. It’s the same water. We get limescale in kettles because the water is obviously constantly changing, but system water is the same water - just re-heated, so there shouldn’t be any fresh water with fresh calcium. BUT, if a system leaks water (or a sealed system is very often ‘re-pressurized) then this IS fresh water. Limescale will form - and form rapidly. Don’t worry too much about removing radiators to decorate. As long as you don’t redecorate every room every few months then it should be okay.

 

WHAT CAUSES AIR TO GET INTO THE SYSTEM?

Air can get in when water gets out. Leaks of water from joints or even pin holes in radiators will cause air to get into the system. But there are other factors. ‘Open’ systems (the type with a small tank - usually in the loft) will have a pipe called an Open Vent looped over into the water tank. This pipe must extend for some distance before looping over the tank. If it doesn’t then it can dribble water out when the system gets warm. This will oxygenate the system water (the water actually sucks air in) in much the same way as a garden pond is oxygenated by a fountain or water fall. On a pond, it’s a good thing; on a heating system it’s disastrous! Water simply laying in the tank will also absorb air - it gets saturated with air. If a system has not been designed or installed correctly then the Open Vent pipe can actually eject water into the tank when the pump is running (‘pumping-over’). This can cause a brand new system to ‘sludge-up’ in a matter of months! However, it’s cyclical. Sludge can actually cause the system to ‘pump over’ in this way also.

 

WHAT ELSE CAN CAUSE SLUDGE?

When a system is first installed there are naturally some chemicals present. If the system is made up of copper - with soldered copper joints - then there can be residues of soldering flux. This MUST be flushed out when the system is first filled with water. Not only that, but the system must be adequately flushed using a light cleansing chemical. All too often this is not the case at all. These chemicals will react and actually cause corrosion to begin.

 

BUT CAN’T SOMETHING BE DONE TO INHIBIT CORROSION?

Yes! An ‘inhibitor’ should have been added when the system was first filled.This costs no more than £30 but is often left out!

 

SO WHAT CAN BE DONE NOW?

Some method of flushing out (or filtering out) of the sludge has to be employed.  There are cleansers that can be added to the system.  Some are acidic, and some are pH neutral. If an acid is used then this attacks everything - not just the sludge, but also areas that are unaffected. Over the years of our experience we have discovered that chemical power flushing of systems is best done with pH neutral chemicals. Many ‘power flushing’ businesses will turn up at your door and carry out a ‘one-day flush’ We don’t believe this works!  So what we did was to look at the problem in a different light.  We know that the particles are 99% flakes of rust.  These are magnetic.  As you may know, there are devices available in the food industry that collect magnetic particles during production and packing. These ensure that your baked beans or whatever are free from any ferrous metal particles. So we set about a method of cleaning that is second to none, but also, a long term solution to the problem. Our service is two-stage - and this is why it is key to getting it right. First of all, we add a chemical to your system. This is left in for anything between one and three days.  We then return and carry out a dynamic flush (or purge) of the system using water under high pressure.  However, this pressure is constantly monitored to ensure that your system comes to no harm. Each individual radiator is flushed on its own. Finally, we add a corrosion inhibiting chemical - and we highly recommend the fitting of a magnetic trap.  This is no ordinary magnetic filter though, it is our own design - that is sold all over the UK - which we manufacture. The BoilerGuard has TWO high-intensity Neodymium magnets that envelope a copper capture chamber. This creates a highly-intense magnetic field around a wide tube in which the heating water passes. Permanently fitted on your system, it will go on protecting it - collecting any sludge particles left in the system.  Being made of steel and copper it will outlive your system!  Indeed, we guarantee the product for ever!

 

COSTS: (for systems up to 10 radiators)

Initial call to add chemical to system  -  £145

Return call to set up flushing equipment  -  £120

Power flush of system  -  £27 per radiator

Add corrosion inhibitor  -  £25

BoilerGuard (optional)  -  £99

 

Systems over 10 radiators but less than 20: Add on £50

 

PLEASE NOTE:

We only usually power flush 'sealed' pressurized systems - with a combi or 'system' boiler. Obviously we do make exceptions, so we'd probably have to see the system to be sure. If your boiler is noisy (and that's your principle concern) it may not respond to our method - or any other method. We therefore either recommend replacing the heat exchanger prior to our filtering procedure being carried out, or we can add a noise-reducing chemical.

 

Obviously we can only fit the BoilerGuard magnetic filter if there is adequate space on the pipework for it to be installed. On some systems it's just not possible.

 

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Apply now!

FREE HOT WATER!

Yes, really!

Rather than spending £3,500 on a solar hot water system, simply put your money into an Energy Payment Trust (EPT), and it will pay your entire hot water bill for the year - every year - for 20 years!*

AMAZING! But true!

Yes, you read it right. Although a solar panel, which might cost the same or even more than an EPT, would only pay a portion of your hot water bill, an EPT will pay ALL of it!

No equipment needed

No pumps or valves

Nothing on your roof

Amazing!

 

Please contact us for full details

HERE

Or you can write to us at:

19 Cockney Hill, Reading. RG30 4HF

 

*Domestic systems only

 

If you wish to end your agreement at any time within the first year, you can have ALL of your money returned!

 

We strongly suggest you read THIS if you are looking for solar panels - then come back here and apply to pay into an EPT.

“Costs for a typical solar water heating system range from £3,000 to £5,000...and will save a gas consumer about £50 a year...Most solar water heating systems come with a 5-10 year warranty .”

Whereas...

An EPT will cost £3,500...

pay ALL of your hot water costs...

for 20 years!

 

For those who have read this far down, there is no such thing as an EPT - It’s just your bank account! Yes, that’s right. Put the money into your bank account (that you would have spent on solar panels) and the account will pay ALL your hot water bills for 20 years or more! Solar panels are a great way to throw your money away - or you could just send the money to me.

 

Scroll down on the left hand side to read all about green scams (schemes).

 

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Global warming, the Central England Temperature and weather...

 

Central England Temperature

(CET)

The CET is a record of temperature of central England going back to 1659. We can therefore see how(if) the temperature here is changing. The CET temperatures are adjusted to account for a warmer immediately-local environment, though it’s not clear if proper account has been taken of this Urban Island Heat Effect, so the figures given in modern times may include a small warming bias. This means that it’s difficult to trust latest data against data from over 100 years ago. Hence my ‘running’ last 10 years instead:

 

Last 10 years average 10.45c

2008 9.96c

2008 thus cooler by 0.49 deg c

 

Last 10 years average 10.41

2009 10.11c

2009 thus cooler by 0.30 deg c

 

Jan (last 10 years) 5.02 deg c

Jan 2010 1.4 deg c

thus cooler by 3.62 deg c

 

Feb (last 10 years) 5.03 deg c

Feb 2010 2.8 deg c

thus cooler by 2.23 deg c

 

Mar (last 10 years) 6.68 deg c

Mar 2010 6.1 deg c

thus cooler by 0.58 deg c

 

Apr (last 10 years) 9.04 deg c

Apr 2010 8.8 deg c

thus cooler by 0.24 deg c

 

May (last 10 years) 12.18 deg c

May 2010 10.7 deg c

thus cooler by 1.48 deg c

 

Jun (last 10 years) 15.04 deg c

Jun 2010 15.2 deg c

thus warmer by 0.16 deg c

 

Jul (last 10 years) 16.62 deg c

Jul 2010 17.1 deg c

thus warmer by 0.48 deg c

 

Aug (last 10 years) 16.68 deg c

Aug 2010 currently 15.3 deg c

thus cooler by 1.38 deg c

 

 

The above shows that the current temperatures are COOLER than the 10-year average. This is not what you are told, of course, as the Met Office don’t appear to want you to know it! So if you think that it’s chillier than you’ve been used to for the past decade then you’re right, it is! But don’t expect the Met Office or the BBC news to tell you this...they don’t want you to know.

 

 

The graph that worries people who believe in warming...

 

 

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THE experts in limescale treatment & prevention and CH system power flushing

 

 

In our area?

 

We are the recognised experts for descaling Gledhill appliances. We cover a large area around Reading in Berkshire, which includes Oxford, Swindon, Slough, Basingstoke, and Aldershot.

Aldershot

Swindon

Oxford

Wallingford

Reading

Slough

Maidenhead

Basingstoke

Newbury

Heating in red, cooking/lighting in green, and hot water in blue

This shows why it often simply doesn’t pay to have some sort of ‘green’ way of providing your hot water. It’s just 1/12th of my energy costs. Any such scheme would have to be VERY cheap to install, and save a lot.